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Since the terrace opened
We are on the roof of a building on MG Road, six floors above the traffic in Jaipur House. The lift goes all the way up and the doors open onto open sky. Below you is a city that has been feeding travellers for four hundred years; in front of you is a tandoor that has been lit since five. We cook North Indian, Mughlai, Chinese and Italian, we mix a long list of things without alcohol in them, and we do it seven evenings a week until half past eleven.
How it started
The top of the building was flat, empty and hot all afternoon — the kind of space every Agra rooftop is before somebody decides otherwise. What it had was the one thing no ground-floor room in this city has: air, and a horizon.
So we built for the evening rather than the afternoon. Lamps low along the parapet, tables far enough apart to talk across, and a kitchen put where the smoke would carry away from the seating rather than into it. Nothing opens before one in the afternoon, because that is not what the roof is for.
The name came last, and it was the obvious one. You have to go up to get here.
Six floors up, on MG Road
Open sky, a parapet you can lean on, and the whole of Shahganj going about its evening underneath.
What we cook
A rooftop menu in India has to do several jobs at once. The table that wants seekh kebab and rumali roti is sitting next to the table that wants a margherita, and the table after that has come for chilli paneer and a Virgin Mojito. So we run five separate cooking lines behind one pass, and every one of them is somebody’s specialty rather than an afterthought.
It is why the menu is long — 225 dishes across 15 sections — and why we would rather you ordered across it than stayed in one corner. The tandoor and the wok are both worth your evening.
Everything is cooked to order. Nothing sits under a lamp waiting for a delivery rider, which is also why we would rather quote you an honest forty minutes than a hopeful twenty.
Behind the pass
The view
Agra empties its light slowly. The sun goes behind the low roofs to the west, the street lamps on MG Road come up one row at a time, and for about twenty minutes the whole city is the colour of weak tea. That happens every single evening and it is free.
We hold the terrace tables for people who book them, because on a Friday they go by eight. If you want to sit under the sky, say so when you book — choose Rooftop and we only confirm if a terrace table is genuinely free, rather than seating you inside and apologising later.
Inside, there is an air-conditioned room for the two months of the year when the roof is not the right idea, and a private corner that seats up to twenty for the evenings that are somebody’s.
You come for the food. You stay because nobody wants to be the one who suggests going downstairs.
Look around
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The place
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From ₹20 to ₹830
Tandoor to frappes
Across 500+ reviews
1:00 PM to 11:30 PM
Come up
Order it to your door, or take the table by the parapet. Ordering here costs us nothing in commission, so the saving comes back to you either way.
Open seven days, 1:00 PM to 11:30 PM. Last orders 11:00 PM.